The Complete Beginner’s Guide to Perfume
If you are interested in perfumes, and if you are still a beginner…
Then today is just the right time. After years of accumulation, Parfco has launched the Beginner’s Guide to Perfume, which summarizes all the essential knowledge that newcomers need to understand.
It only takes about 15 minutes to read, ensuring that your fragrance journey will become twice as effective with half the effort.
From this moment on, you will step into a wonderful new world of scents!
Basic Knowledge and Key Concepts
The foundation determines the structure above it. In the world of perfume, you must first understand the terminology and concepts before moving forward!
▎On Ingredients: Is It Perfume, or “Scented Alcohol”?
The English word “Perfume” comes from the Latin word “Parfumare”, which means “through smoke.”
In Chinese, it is translated as “fragrant water”, which easily leads many people to mistakenly believe that water is the main solvent of perfume. In reality, the primary solvent of perfume is alcohol.
The main components of perfume are: alcohol, fragrance oil, and a small amount of distilled water. Alcohol usually makes up 70–80% of a perfume’s formula — it is the true carrier of fragrance.
On the market, there are also a very small number of perfumes that do not use alcohol as a solvent. These are usually oil-based baby perfumes, designed to avoid the irritation of alcohol on delicate skin. However, because oil-based solvents evaporate poorly, oil perfumes have much weaker diffusion and scent performance compared to alcohol-based perfumes.
▎The Source of Scent: Fragrance Oils
The substances responsible for the volatile aroma in perfumes are fragrance oils, which are blends of various natural and synthetic fragrance compounds.
Today, internationally renowned fragrance and flavor companies such as Firmenich, Givaudan, IFF, and Symrise supply raw fragrance materials to major perfume brands worldwide.
Before the invention of synthetic fragrance ingredients, the only way to obtain scent materials was through natural extraction. Essential oils were distilled or extracted from flowers, fruit peels, woods, and even animals. In addition, oils can also be obtained from roots and rhizomes through distillation or solvent extraction — for example, the precious and costly orris root oil.
Thanks to the development of modern perfume industry technology, people can now obtain desired scents through synthetic molecules — such as the commonly used Ambroxan, Iso E Super, and Calone (watermelon ketone).
The appearance of synthetic fragrance materials solved the limitations and supply shortages of natural extracts, made up for banned ingredients, and compensated for the details lost during natural extraction. This has made the overall aroma of perfumes sharper, richer, and more diverse, while also providing affordable alternatives to rare natural materials.
Today’s flourishing perfume market is largely due to the advancement of synthetic fragrance compounds. Therefore, don’t be afraid when you see the word “synthetic” — it is not synonymous with low quality.
▎The Transformation of Scents
The three-tier structure of fragrance dates back to 1889, with the creation of Guerlain’s Jicky. For the first time, perfume adopted a pyramid-like structure of top, middle, and base notes, revealing three different scent phases over time.
The fragrance pyramid is not a strictly scientific formula of ingredients, but rather a guide that helps us understand the general evolution of a perfume’s character.
Curious about what goes into your favorite perfumes? 🌸 Discover detailed ingredient breakdowns and fragrance notes at Fragrantica — one of the world’s most trusted perfume encyclopedias.
Understanding Perfume Notes: Top, Middle, and Base
When exploring fragrances, one of the most important concepts for beginners is the fragrance pyramid. Perfumes are usually divided into three stages: top notes, middle notes (heart), and base notes. These layers describe how a perfume evolves over time.
Top Notes: The First Impression of a Perfume
The top notes are the very first scents you notice right after spraying perfume. They are highly volatile, usually lasting only 5–15 minutes. While the middle and base notes are already present, they are overshadowed by the strong and fast-evaporating molecules of the top. In fact, the impression of the top notes is often a fusion of all the fragrance layers.
Typical top note ingredients: citrus notes such as lemon, bergamot, and orange.
Characteristics: quick to evaporate, sharp, and highly diffusive.
Middle Notes: The Heart of the Fragrance
As the top notes fade, the middle notes (also called heart notes) start to appear. They usually last for 20 minutes to 1 hour, carrying the core character of the perfume and shaping the main impression people remember.
Typical middle note ingredients: floral and fruity accords.
Characteristics: softer, warmer, and more balanced.
Base Notes: The Lasting Foundation
The base notes are what remain after the middle fades, forming the foundation of the fragrance. These scents are lighter but more enduring, lasting 1–4 hours or even longer on the skin.
Typical base note ingredients: woody and musky notes.
Characteristics: slow to evaporate, deep, and long-lasting.
Linear Perfumes: No Top, Middle, or Base
It is important to note that the fragrance pyramid is not an exact science. Some perfumes unfold in multiple subtle stages, while others are linear perfumes — scents that stay consistent from beginning to end, with no significant changes.
Fragrance classification is based on the fragrance wheel by Michael Edwards,
Perfume Families & Concentrations Explained
The purpose of perfume fragrance families is to give each fragrance a general style definition, making it easier for us to quickly filter and choose perfumes. For example, if you prefer a fresh and light scent, you may want to avoid rich and spicy Oriental fragrances.
It’s important to note that fragrance families are more of a consensus within the perfume industry and community rather than a strict scientific classification. Deciding which category a perfume belongs to can sometimes be debated.
Perfume Concentrations (EDC, EDT, EDP, Parfum)
When you see words like EDT or EDP in a perfume’s name, they refer to the concentration of fragrance oils within the perfume, which affects both its strength and longevity.
EDC — Eau de Cologne (3–5% fragrance oil)
Light and refreshing, short-lasting.EDT — Eau de Toilette (5–15% fragrance oil)
Balanced strength, popular for daily use.EDP — Eau de Parfum (15–20% fragrance oil)
Stronger, longer-lasting, more noticeable.Parfum / Extrait (20–30% fragrance oil)
Highly concentrated, luxurious, and long-lasting.
Longevity & Performance
The balance between alcohol and fragrance oils determines both projection (how far the scent travels) and longevity (how long it lasts on skin).
Low concentration perfumes (like EDC):
Higher alcohol content, quick projection, but fade faster.High concentration perfumes (like EDP or Parfum):
Lower alcohol content, softer opening, but much longer-lasting on skin.
Understanding perfume concentrations and fragrance families will help you choose the right scent for your lifestyle, whether you want a light daytime fragrance or a long-lasting evening signature perfume.
Different concentrations mean different formulas: the EDT and EDP versions of the same perfume are not simply adjusted by changing the percentage of fragrance oils. The raw material ratios and even ingredient choices are often modified, which naturally results in noticeable differences in scent. In fact, an EDT and EDP can be considered two distinct perfumes.
Longevity: Longevity refers to the maximum time a perfume’s scent lasts on the skin. It is directly related to the concentration of fragrance oils. Typically, the higher the concentration, the longer the perfume will last. However, because higher concentrations contain less alcohol, they usually have weaker projection.
Sillage (Projection): Sillage describes how far the perfume radiates into the air around you. A perfume with strong sillage can be noticed from a distance, while one with weak sillage stays close to the skin and is only detectable up close.
